Texas-style Spare Ribs
There was a point many years ago that I really wasn't that into Texas-style pork ribs. The majority of the ones I tried had the standard very simple salt and pepper seasoning and then little to no sauce, which rendered the ribs tasting more hammy than barbecue to me. They weren't bad, I just much preferred the brisket and sausage that were superior for my taste buds. I've noticed though that the proliferation of barbecue all across Texas has made pork ribs slightly different, much more interesting, and diverse. I now always include spare ribs in my orders and some have been really exceptional. Knowing a lot about what I like most about Texas-style spare ribs, I decided it was time for me to try my hand at them and this is my first attempt.
The ribs I'm most drawn to have a thin layer of sauce, and after trying many sauces from Texas barbecue joints, my favorite style is the thin, mustardy type that has a hearty tang, just enough sugar to dial back the harshness, and a peppery spice layer. So I started by putting together a sauce in that vain, beginning with dissolving brown sugar in water and then building up the sauce with a ketchup and mustard base, a fair amount of apple cider vinegar, and extra depth added by way of Worcestershire and a variety of spices.
For the rub, I opted for the salt and pepper combo that's a requirement. I've seen folks toss a few extra spices into the mix as well as use a mustard slather for enhanced adherence, but I wanted to start basic and make adjustment if needed. I also used full spare ribs since I've never been to a Texas smokehouse that served St. Louis cut or loin backs.
I set the ribs in the smoker and used a couple big chunks of hickory, which is a medium smoking wood, to help embed the ribs with a noticeable smokiness. One thing with Texas ribs is they always seem to be pretty picture perfect with a deep mahogany hue that is not as dark as ribs done up with a more complex and sugary rub.
So once the ribs hit that ideal color, I began to spray them with apple cider vinegar every 45 minutes or so. Although this will add a bit of flavor, the main point is to introduce moisture to the surface of the ribs which then has to evaporate until they begin darkening further, effectively keeping the color in tack.
Now I'm used to slathering ribs pretty heavily with sauce, so to get that thin layer that's a hallmark of Texas-style I used a method I saw in many sources I trusted. This had me brushing a layer of sauce on a sheet of heavy duty foil, then resting the ribs in it face down. I then closed the foil up around the rack and placed it back in the smoker just for 20 minutes to allow for some setting. After that time, I rested the ribs in the oven for 30 to 60 minutes before serving.
My biggest pain point with ribs has always been slicing, which tends to be a little more challenging with spares. I did my best though, plated them up, and served. The ribs were a bit darker than I was hoping, but the flavor was pretty spot on. The simplicity of the salt and pepper rub let the smokiness of the meat really shine, while the sauce was just enough to add complexity, bringing in a tangy, sharp, and slightly sweet flavor. I do think I have room for improvement here, but this was a first crack that was worthy of sharing with y'all.
