The Meatwave

King Oyster Yakitori

King Oyster Yakitori View Recipe

At this point in my recipe development career, the question is not so much what else can I do up yakitori-style, but what haven't I already been done? My yakitori list has grown quite large with the likes of chicken, mochi, wings, beef, tsukune (meatballs), etc. It's probably actually time I just leave this category of Japanese cooking alone and move along to other things, but that can be a challenge when yakitori is so good and so simple that it's something I constantly want to return to. And I've done that yet again, this time with king oyster mushroom yakitori.

King Oyster Yakitori

This recipe is actually "yakitori-style" since yakitori really is confined to grilled chicken. The grill is also the only other real requirement—a basting sauce is not always used in yakitori, however my encounters with this dish always has a savory and sweet glaze, so that's always what I've done. The most common sauce is tare, which is more-or-less like a teriyaki sauce that can really be customized to each chef's personal preference. Both sauces have a base of soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and sake, but tare is often built upon from there with additional seasonings. I was pretty happy with my original take on tare, which adds scallions, white pepper, vinegar, garlic, and ginger into the mix, so haven't really strayed much from that in each subsequent yakitori recipe I've done.

King Oyster Yakitori

The fodder for the tare this time around were king oyster mushrooms, which I go back and forth calling king trumpets too—same thing. These have been my go-to grilling mushroom in recent years because their size makes them well suited for the job and they taste really great with a little char and smokiness mixed it. I used "baby" king oysters for this recipe, so all I had to was give them a light brushing before putting them on skewers to remove some stray dirt, but if you pick up the larger version, they can still be skewered easily by cutting them into smaller sections first.

King Oyster Yakitori

After skewering, I merely gave the shrooms a light brushing of oil before setting them over indirect heat on the grill. I let them cook, covered, until they started to brown and were tender throughout.

King Oyster Yakitori

At that point I moved the skewers over direct heat and brushed the mushrooms all over with the tare. While some sauce slid off, enough stuck and set to give the king oysters a decent coating that caramelized in spots while the mushrooms also picked up some spotty charring around the caps.

King Oyster Yakitori

And, unsurprisingly, the tare worked its magic yet again and rendered these mushroom skewers damn delicious. I thought the earthy and woodsy flavor was actually an even better compliment for the sweet and savory tare than chicken is, and the mushrooms had a light enough touch to them that you could taste the underlaying complexity of the sauce with notes like ginger and white pepper coming out the most. The mushrooms were also quite filling, making their heartiness on par with the more common chicken skewers. I had originally planned on making smaller, single serving skewers of these, and that was really the only thing I wish I had changed because I'm sure I would have gotten a photo whose looks would have better matched the great taste.

Print Recipe

King Oyster Yakitori

  • Yield 6-8 servings
  • Prep 10 Minutes
  • Inactive 45 Minutes
  • Cook 11 Minutes
  • Total 1 Hour 6 Minutes

Ingredients

  • For the Tare Sauce
  • 1/2 cup mirin
  • 1/2 cup soy sauce
  • 1/4 cup sake
  • 1/4 cup dark brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 3 medium cloves of garlic, smashed and peeled
  • 3 scallions, roughly chopped
  • 1 (1-inch) piece of ginger, sliced
  • 1 tablespoon whole black or white peppercorns
  •  
  • For the Mushrooms
  • 2 lbs baby king oyster mushrooms
  • 3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
  • Wooden or metal skewers

Procedure

  1. To make the tare sauce: Combine mirin, soy sauce, sake, brown sugar, rice vinegar, garlic, scallions, ginger slices, and peppercorns in a medium saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer, whisk to combine, and cook until mixture is thick and syrupy, about 45 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer. Set aside or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.
  2. To make the mushrooms: Thread mushrooms onto skewers. Brush mushrooms all over with oil. Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil grilling grate. Place mushrooms on cool side of grill and cover. Cook mushrooms until tender, reduced in size, and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
  3. Move mushrooms to hot side of grill and brush all over with tare sauce. Continue to cook, turning occasionally and brushing with additional sauce as desired, until sauce has set and browned in spots, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a plate and serve immediately.

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